Located in the province of Tarragona, around 20 kilometres west of the Mediterranean, the town of Valls is a Catalan jewel known for its age-old traditions and gastronomic importance. With a population of around 25,000, Valls is the birthplace of two emblematic elements of Catalan culture: calçots (roasted sweet onions) and castells (human towers). Its atmosphere blends history, festive celebrations and natural landscapes, making it an ideal destination for those who want to discover the very essence of Catalonia.
The birthplace of castells
Valls is internationally recognised as the birthplace of the castells, the impressive human towers that symbolise solidarity and collective strength. For more than two centuries, the town has been the centre of this Catalan tradition, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2010. The castells consist of multi-storey towers made up of men, women and children, who help each other to reach dizzying heights. It's not just a demonstration of physical prowess, but also of the spirit of community and cooperation that characterises Catalan culture.
Two of the most famous castellers' groups can be found in Valls: the Colla Vella dels Xiquets de Valls and the Colla Joves Xiquets de Valls. These two rival teams regularly battle it out in castells competitions, at local festivals and dedicated gatherings. Their performances culminate in the Festa Major de Sant Joan in June, when thousands of people gather to watch these spectacular performances. Locals and visitors alike take an active part in this celebration, where collective effort and mutual aid are at the heart of the event.
Valls also offers the chance to discover this tradition throughout the year through public demonstrations. In addition, the Museu Casteller de Catalunya, opening in 2020, offers an immersive dive into the history and significance of castells. This modern museum combines interactive exhibits, videos and historical artefacts, allowing visitors to better understand the complexity of this cultural practice, while feeling the emotion and pride that surround each human tower. It is a must-see for anyone wishing to gain an in-depth understanding of the importance of castells in Valls.
The calçotada: a gastronomic festival not to be missed
Valls is also famous for its calçots, sweet onions grilled over a wood fire, which are at the heart of the calçotada, a gastronomic festival typical of the region. Calçots are a local variety of sweet onion, particularly appreciated for its mild, slightly sweet flavour. Grown around Valls, they are harvested in winter, from November to April, when the calçotada becomes a popular tradition.
The calçotada is much more than a simple meal; it's a true cultural experience that brings families, friends and visitors together around a large table. The calçots are grilled over coals, then served in terracotta tiles to keep them warm. They are generally eaten with a romesco sauce made from tomatoes, almonds, hazelnuts, garlic and olive oil, which brings out their flavour to perfection. Eating calçots is an art in itself: they are peeled by hand, dipped in the sauce and eaten with the arms raised to avoid getting dirty. The meal then continues with grilled meats, white beans, bread and local wine.
Every January, Valls organises the Gran Festa de la Calçotada, a major event that attracts thousands of gourmets from all over Catalonia and beyond. During this festival, the town becomes the nerve centre of calçots, with competitions for cooking, tasting and even peeling the longest calçot. The streets come alive with street performances, cookery demonstrations and local markets, creating a friendly, festive atmosphere. The calçotada is not only a gastronomic celebration, but also a tribute to the land and the farmers who perpetuate this agricultural tradition.
The calçotada is an unmissable ritual for the people of Valls, and perfectly embodies the Catalan philosophy of sharing and enjoying food. For visitors, taking part in a calçotada is a unique way to discover the local culture, while enjoying fresh, traditional produce.
Historical and natural heritage
Valls may be famous for its castells and calçots, but it is also a town with a rich historical and natural heritage. Founded in the Middle Ages, the town's remains bear witness to its importance over the centuries. A stroll through the historic centre of Valls reveals a mix of Gothic, Baroque and modern architecture that tells the story of the town's evolution.
One of Valls' most emblematic monuments is the church of Sant Joan, built between the 16th and 18th centuries. This imposing late-Gothic building can be recognised by its bell tower, one of the highest in Catalonia, which offers exceptional panoramic views of the town and surrounding countryside. Inside, you can admire works of religious art, as well as a crypt dedicated to local saints. The church is a central venue for the town's religious festivals and celebrations, reinforcing its role as a spiritual and social focal point.
Valls is also home to a number of historic buildings, such as the old medieval prison, now a cultural centre, and the Plaça del Blat, an emblematic square where numerous events take place, including the famous castells competitions. The city has managed to retain its authentic character while adapting to modern developments, with cultural and tourist infrastructures that welcome visitors curious to discover its rich past.
Aside from its built heritage, Valls is surrounded by natural landscapes that are well worth exploring. The surrounding hills offer ideal hiking trails for nature lovers, with views over the fertile plain of the Camp de Tarragona. These walks also provide an opportunity to discover the vineyards that produce DO Tarragona wines, another pride of the region. Valls and the surrounding area are therefore ideal for visitors wishing to combine cultural discoveries with walks in the great outdoors.
Valls' local markets, especially the one in Plaça del Pati, are another must-see aspect of city life. This market is the ideal place to sample local produce, from calçots to wines, cheeses and traditional charcuterie. This meeting place is a living testimony to the relationship between the locals and their land, where you can appreciate the diversity and quality of the region's produce.
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