Geneva, perched on the south-western tip of Lake Geneva, is renowned for its rich history and internationalism. During your visit to Switzerland's second-largest city, you'll (re)discover both the evolution of Christianity, since Geneva was the capital of the Reformation, and that of the United Nations. From the Jet d'Eau to the Palais des Nations, via the old town, you'll be won over by this "city where no man is a stranger".
"With this great mirror of a lake and this brilliant azure river, Geneva has two skies", declared Jules Michelet in the 19th century in his famous "Histoire de France".
In fact, Lake Geneva is fed mainly by the Rhône, which flows out of the lake at Geneva.
When the weather is fine in summer, as is often the case in mountainous regions, the cumulus clouds are reflected in the water - if the lake breeze, which is ideal for water sports, is not yet active.
Geneva is home to many religious buildings. Nicknamed the "Protestant Rome" and the capital of the Reformation, it is also home to many other religious communities. From St Peter's Cathedral to the mosque, from Calvin's auditorium to the Beth-Yaacov synagogue, you can admire the different architectural expressions of the religions of the Book. And while the town hall and the Tour de l'île are of medieval origin, there are many private mansions built from the 17th century onwards.
A multicultural capital
The Protestant cathedral of Saint Peter is a must for anyone interested in religious architecture. Built at the end of the 4th century, it was the church of the Bishop of Geneva until the Reformation in the 16th century. As a result, it bears witness to the evolution of Christianity, from its recognition as the official religion of the Roman Empire to the development of Protestantism. Nearby, Calvin's auditorium, with its Gothic architecture, was originally a Marian church before being desecrated by the famous theologian.
In a very different style, the Russian church, built in the 19th century, welcomes the Orthodox faithful on a hill in the Tranchées district. The first building to be constructed in the area, its orientation determines the layout of the district.
Closer to the Rhône is the Great Beth-Yaacov Synagogue. This was the first synagogue to be built in Switzerland, and its architect wanted to give it a distinctive style of its own, of which Geneva is said to be the paternity. Its architecture is therefore halfway between that of the Dresden synagogue and neo-Moorish art, with its bands painted in two colours. In the Petit-Saconnex district, you can also admire the Geneva mosque, the largest in French-speaking Switzerland, and one of the few to have a minaret.
The Old Town
Around Saint Peter's cathedral, you'll find a series of narrow cobbled streets interspersed with small squares, linked by secret passageways which, in medieval times, were used to escape from the medieval city. At 19 rue Perron, you'll come across the most famous of these, known as the "Passage de Monetier". It only opens once a year, in December, during the Fête de l'Escalade. This commemorates Geneva's victory over the Duke of Savoy in 1602.
In this maze, you'll come across the Place Bourg-de-Four, the oldest square in the town. Here you can admire the narrow houses typical of the city, with their strange elevations. In the 17th century, many Protestant refugees flocked to Geneva.
A housing solution had to be found, and the buildings were raised. The historic buildings also house a number of museums, including the Maison Tavel, the oldest surviving private dwelling in the city.
From the English Garden to the Parc des Bastions
On the banks of Lake Geneva lies the Jardin Anglais. Featuring a monumental cast-iron fountain and one of the world's most famous flowering clocks, it is a must-see when strolling through Geneva. Further afield, the Parc des Eaux-vives, home to some very old trees, is adjacent to the Parc de la Grange. The latter has a large rose garden, and Gallo-Roman remains from the early Christian era can still be seen.
In the city centre, the Parc des Bastions, once known as the "belle promenade", was laid out in the 18th century.Its purpose at the time was to provide residents with a walk inside the city walls, during the confinement intended to protect Geneva from the plague in Marseille. Here you can discover the international monument to the Reformation, set against part of the old walls that surrounded the city until the 19th century.
Geneva, an international city
Geneva has long been regarded as a land of asylum, thanks to its role as a host city during the persecution of Protestants. It was also home to Lenin before the Russian Revolution of 1917. Because of this tradition and Switzerland's neutrality, many international organisations have set up their headquarters here.
When you visit Geneva, be sure to admire the Palais des Nations! Built in the heart of the Ariana Park, it is the European headquarters of the UN. The imposing complex is surrounded by peacocks, which were given as gifts by the Permanent Mission of India.
Another important international building is the headquarters of the International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC). Located on Avenue de la Paix, in the former Carlton Hotel building, it is of real architectural interest. And, interestingly, the ICRC is generally considered to be a sui generis international entity, making it a sovereign non-governmental body comparable to the Vatican!
Run, walk or cycle with JOOKS from the Jet d'Eau to Saint-Pierre Cathedral!
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